A brief history of the emergence and relevance of the trench coat throughout eras of fashion
By: Tori Jennings
The trench coat is an iconic fashion item, one that has survived decades of different fashion trends. Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s is ingrained into everyone’s mind. This piece has withstood the test of time and is changing and developing with the times. The trench coat first emerged around 1907 by the explorer Sir Earnest Shackleton as they roamed Antarctica. It was quickly adopted in the United States and was actually implemented into soldiers’ uniforms in World War I.
The term “trench coat” originated from its purpose and use during World War I. Officers would wear these long, water-repelling coats because the woolen ones that they had previously worn in the trenches became too heavy. The replacement was coined a trench coat, hence the birth of the name. Originally produced and designed by Burberry and Aquascutum, the coats made their way to civilians, as they would wear them in support of the military. Again, the coats re-emerged during World War II for the same use, however, it was at that time that the coats became popular amongst women. Iconic women, such as Greta Garbo and Katherine Hepburn, integrated these coats into their looks. Additionally, these stars helped bring the trench coat into the world of Hollywood and entertainment, appearing in countless films; among the most memorable, is Casablanca. It was a sign of glamour and class, a style that would come to change in the next decades.
The 1960s and 70s brought in new trends and styles, yet the trench court prevailed. The glamorous trend re-emerged in the late 60s and early 70s. In fact, Jackie Kennedy paired it with an evening gown. However, the coat evolved; it was able to be dressed up or down, exemplified by style icons and stars alike. Contrastingly to Jackie Kennedy, Jane Birkin paired a trench coat with a simple pair of ballet flats and a straw bag.
Losing steam in the late 80s until the early 2000s, the trench coat emerged yet again in the mid-2000s. Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga have incorporated the piece into runway looks for the past decade. It also emerged again as a casual fashion statement, with models and celebrities strutting the streets in different versions of the piece. One of the most important aspects of the trend is its availability to the consumer. Although it started out as a symbol of stature, wealth, and class, it eventually became readily available to the average person, relatively inexpensive investment for a life-long piece. The trench coat has also emerged as a fashion statement regardless of the season; it can be dressed up during the fall or winter with a pair of boots or draped over a sundress during the spring.
To think such an iconic piece began in the trenches of World War I is incredible and demonstrates the significance and reach of the fashion industry. An item like the trench coat is readily available, stylish, fashionable, and multi-faceted. It has survived decades of changes in fashion and has remained at the heart of the industry since its introduction.
Tori Jennings 